Holistic Skincare

 
 

oil cleansing 101

At Calypso Eastern Medicine, we believe in the power of oils to cleanse the skin without stripping our natural microbiome.

Our largest organ is our skin, which provides protection, immune system response, and defenses for maintaining our body’s vital processes. These principles commonly get overlooked in skincare with over cleansing, over exfoliating, or using harsh lab created chemicals to clarify the skin, which over time affects the health and texture of the skin. This approach does not align from a holistic skincare perspective to maintain and nourish the skin and assist in its optimal function.

In holistic skincare, it is believed that the skin is a messenger for communicating the body’s needs and health state.

“Like dissolves like.” In other words, putting clean, nourishing oils on your skin is intended to:

  • lift excess sebum, the oily substance produced by glands on your skin

  • clean out clogged pores like blackheads and whiteheads

  • remove dead skin, pollutants, and makeup

Oils used for cleansing may also have healing properties, important nutrients, or other skin-boosting benefits.

It is suggested to use oil cleansing to nourish the lipid bilayer of the skin with moisture, while cleansing to remove impurities. Oil does this best.

How to choose a cleansing oil

Now that so many brands have added an oil cleanser to their line, you have the option of buying a premixed version formulated for your skin type or making your own.

Pre-made oil cleansers are easy to find online and in most drugstores and beauty stores. If you have acne-prone skin, look for products that say they are noncomedogenic to ensure that they won’t clog your pores.

The oils most commonly used in DIY recipes are olive oil and castor oil. Most recipes recommend starting with a 1:1 ratio of these two oils. Then increase the amount of olive oil for dry skin or castor oil for oily, acne-prone skin.

Olive oil is rich in vitamins and antioxidants and is important for hydration. Castor oil is antibacterial and acts like an astringent cleaner. Because of the astringent action, castor oil can cause skin drying.

That said, you can use other oils in the basic recipe above, depending on your skin’s needs. For instance, you may want to use jojoba oil if you have oily or acne-prone skin, instead of olive oil, since it’s been shown to help reduce acne and balance oil production. Or you may add avocado oil for extra moisture if you have dry skin.

How to create your own natural cleansing oil blend at home:

Castor Oil is the key ingredient to creating an Oil Cleansing blend. This thick, viscous oil is highly comedogenic, meaning that it sits on top of pores, potentially clogging them up. This might not seem like the greatest thing to put on your face, but remember that the purpose of an oil cleanser is to bond with the oil already in your skin and pull it away. After rinsing, your skin should be totally clear of all the cleansing oils, and any excess sebum that has been building up in your pores.

Oil cleansers are often a combination of Castor Oil and other, more conditioning Carrier Oils, such as Jojoba, Camellia, or Rose Hip Seed Oil. Which Oils you choose to blend with Castor Oil should depend on your skin type. For a soothing blend, try using Tamanu, Argan, or Passionfruit Oil. For oily, or acne-prone skin, consider using Sacha Inchi, Perilla Seed, or Karanja Oil. Mature skin will love a blend using antioxidant-rich oils like Rose Hip, Evening Primrose, or Pomegranate Seed Oil.

Be sure to use only the highest quality Carrier Oils possible for your Oil Cleanser. Look for virgin, cold-pressed, and organic oils when you are shopping for ingredients. Overly processed oils, like cooking oils, can clog your pores.

How do I make an Oil Cleanser?

The basic recipe for an Oil Cleanser is:

  • 1 part Castor oil

  • 4 parts Carrier oil (almond, olive, jojoba, rosehip seed, coconut, etc)

This ratio is just right for normal skin, but should be adjusted for skin types that are on the dry side or on the oily side. For dry skin, use 1 part Castor Oil, and 9 parts Carrier Oil. For oily skin, use 3 parts Castor Oil, and 7 parts Carrier Oil. Simply mix the oils together in a small bottle, and shake them up to make sure they are totally blended.

How is the Oil Cleanser used?

  1. To use the oil cleanser, start by immersing your washcloth in hot water. The water should be at the highest heat you find comfortable on your face and hands. You don’t want to scald your skin, but you do want to generate a good amount of steam.

  2. Place the hot, wet washcloth over your face, and leave it there for about 30 seconds.

  3. Remove the cloth, and pour about one or two teaspoons of Oil Cleanser into your palm. Gently massage the cleanser onto your face in a circular motion. Oil cleansing experts recommend massaging your skin for about two minutes for best results.

  4. Allow the cleanser to sit on your skin for about thirty more seconds.

  5. Wet the washcloth again in hot water, and place it over your face for another ten to twenty seconds.

  6. Rinse the washcloth again in hot water, then use it to gently rub the oil off of your skin. Repeat this step at least three times, or until you are sure that all the oil has been removed.

  7. Follow with a toner. You can also create your own toner with a hydrosol.

  8. Give your pores a few moments to close back up again, then apply your favorite moisturizer or facial oil, if your skin feels dry.